BEST DEGINS OF DRESSES

BEST DESIGN OF DRESSES:
Designers haven’t tempered their creativityso much as trained it like a spotlight on the things they are known for. Georgina Chapman, the designer of Marchesa, wanted to evoke the imagery of a fairy tale. So no surprise that the tiers of a long black tulle dress were dusted with silver and metallic blue beads or that columns overlaid with black netting seemed clustered with beating insect wings. Even the bows that adorned some of the dresses, like a cocktail froth of pale pink tulle, looked animated. These were not drippy deb ribbons.

LOVELY DESIGN:
Ms. Chapman, who with her partner, Keren Craig, greeted guests Wednesday evening at the Chelsea Art Museum, said that she didn’t tone anything down because of tighter wallets. “I think

One-shoulder draped dress:
To that end, Ms. Chapman gave them a one-shoulder draped dress in lilac tulle that looked flocked with petals, an embroidered red sheath swirled with red satin at the bodice, and a long coat in deep plum suede with silver embroidery at the waist and chevron fur piled at the neck and hem. You expected Count Vronsky to enter. If Ms. Chapman, a former actress, likes the sensational, Vera Wang has a thing for such abstract notions and textures that it occasionally lands her in a puddle of fabric. This was not one of those times. Her collection, shown Thursday to a pared down crowd of editors and retailers in her SoHo store, was very appealing — well crafted, engaging and right for the moment.

Sraight-line shirt dress:

Wang’s provisional muse was Peggy Guggenheim, an ugly woman who embraced Wilde’s maxim that, “One should either be a work of art or wear a work of art.” She sewed Cocteau’s pubic hairs to a bedsheet. Ms. Wang did not pursue motifs of that kind. Her opening dress — a straight-line shirt dress in black moiré organza with a wrinkled cotton bib — may have been the best. It was so simple. Fortuny’s Venetian crinkles inspired the texture of several of the tank dresses, as well as a green cotton shirt worn with black stretch pants and a black matte corset.

T-shirt dresses

Modernist embroideries on T-shirt dresses were well done. Occasionally Ms. Wang was full of herself, as with a sad sack of a black coat puffed over a royal-blue gazar skirt. But the charm of the collection came through in the shifts, the papery organza volumes and a lovely, vaguely louche robe de chambre in navy viscose. Oscar de la Renta’s collection was strong on suits, in gray and plum wool tweed and in a fuchsia and black diamond-patterned alpaca. Most were belted and shown with metallic accessories. The sleek dressiness of swagged flannel skirts and silk twill pants was offset with sporty pieces like an animal-print parka in silk taffeta, long fur vests and terrific knits. Evening looks included one-shoulder columns in leopard chiffon and velvet with satin.

NEW JACKETS

If the collection felt a bit stodgy and old hat — or old hair, considering the models’ stately heads it may be that Mr. de la Renta thinks his customers will buy cautiously, looking for
replacement pieces. A ball gown, with yards of black-and-white floral silk draped over a black crinoline, was certainly the last word in grand. Like a lot of designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler seemed to be thinking harder about the women they dress. This collection included some terrific two-tone coats in solid wool or tweed; their slouchy shape, with a step-back collar, will make a statement amid the more conservative coats. The designers also had skinny wool or leather shorts (shown with ribbed tights and chunky tapestry shoes) and sexy, slim-fitting wool pants that young women will love.

DRESS,SHIRTS,T.SHIRT

But while some of their proportions and layers were interesting, rounded skirts in nubby wool with scalloped hems looked clunky. That might have been the desired effect, but combined with the rest of the oversize layers — well, you wonder if the lady has central heating.
Arp-shoulder jackets:
Richard Chai also proposed a slouchy, elongated silhouette. The baggy leather trousers looked new, the blurred checkered prints were lovely and the sharp-shoulder jackets just fine. But Mr. Chai told no special story with this collection.